Japanese Stab Bindings
Cover art by Jody bone
Why a Japanese Stab Binding
Advantages for this structure: it can be used to bind single sheets of paper from a home printer. This structure is best with thin pages, rather than thick pages. Traditionally Japanese paper ("kozo") is very thin and strong, unlike Western paper which is much, much thicker.
Disadvantages for this structure: it will not open flat. There are some ways around the problem, but they involve customizing the structure well beyond its historical composition. For a lay-flat Japanese binding consider the accordion fold book instead.
Tools Required for a Japanese Stab Binding
- awl to make holes
- alternate: nail and hammer, Dremel/drill
- needle and thread
- preferably linen, but polyester, yarn, or ribbon, raffia, etc can be substituted. The yellow sample book uses hemp.
- paper trimming tool
- I use a utility knife and cutting mat
- board trimming tool
- utility knife and cutting mat
- clamp to keep the pages in a neat stack while drilling holes
- for a softcover binding bulldog clips are fine
Materials Required for Japanese Stab Binding
The most basic set of materials:
- pages (the sample book uses legal sheets of paper cut in half and then folded in half--the fold is at the opening edge of the book)
- cover
- binding material (see notes above about thread)
- glue for hardcover version, and/or decorating the cover always use an acid-free adhesive even if it's "only" a glue stick
- coloured fabric for the corner squares (paper can be substituted, or the corner squares can be omitted--a full strip was used on the yellow sample book)
Specific Materials for Soft Cover
- pretty paper for the cover. Should be heavier weight than the pages. (the traditional covers are often a plain ish paper with a title glued on top, down the left hand side. NOTE: this book opens from the LEFT, not the RIGHT; however, we will be making the Westernized version which opens on the right)
Specific Materials for the Hard Cover
- pretty paper for the cover. Should be a slightly lighter weight paper so that it conforms nicely to the boards.
- stiff board for the covers. I typically use Eska board as it is acid free and available from my favorite paper shop. However, you can also use mat board, or laminate cereal boxes together to make a stiff card.
- inside cover paper. This can be the same as the cover paper, or a complementary colour. May be of almost any weight because it is not being wrapped/molded around any corners.
Basic Instructions
At its most basic, the Japanese stab binding is constructed by compiling a stack of papers and sewing through the stack. The name "stab binding" reflects this action of sewing through all sheets on the same pass.
- Compile the pages. Trim if necessary so that all pages are the same size.
- Make two covers (one front, one back) that are the same size as the pages. See notes below on the difference between the two choices of soft/hard cover.
- Add the corner square to the top and bottom corners. This hides any ragged edges, and holds the pages together while you're working. (This is the yellow in the hardcover book picture above.)
- Make the cover (see instructions below for softcover and hardcover variations).
- Slip the pages inside the cover and clamp. Make sure all the pages are square with the cover.
- Drill (or pierce) the necessary holes. We will be making a four-hole stab binding. The holes should be approximately the same distance from the top as from the back of the book (forming a square in the bottom and top corners). There are at least four traditional patterns for sewing.
- Stitch according to the pattern you've chosen.
Soft Cover Instructions
The easier of the two styles. The cover can either be folded in on itself, or if it is thick enough, used as a plain sheet. Title should go in the upper corner near the opening (right side for a "western-style" book, left side for a "traditional-style" book and read from top to bottom. Proceed with Step 5 above.
Hard Cover Instructions
This one is a little more involved but still fairly simple. Basically you need to construct a hinged board so that you can open the book to read it. If the cover wasn't hinged, the stab sewing would prevent you from opening the book.
- Cut two boards that are approximately 1/4" narrower than your pages. They should be the same height as your pages.
- Determine the width of your spine area. (Usually 1/2-1" from the spine.) Cut the board in two along this width.
- Paste up the cover material (decorative paper), and set the cover board onto the material. You should have two pieces on the cover material: the spine and the cover flap which will open with 1/4" in between. Smooth the cover material into the groove and around the cover boards.
- Once this has dried, add the inside cover paper. You do not need to extend this paper all the way across the spine as it will be hidden inside the stab.
- Proceed with Step 5 in the Basic Instructions.
